How to Install a Hotchkis Front and Rear Sway Bars

By: Black Betty from myg37.com

This installation requires only basic tools and moderate mechanical skill. My opinion is a 4 or 5 out of 10 skill/difficulty level.
Tools used:

• 10, 14, 17 mm sockets and ratchet
• 18″ breaker bar
• flat head screwdriver
• 14 mm wrench
• Penetrating lubricant (I prefer PB Blaster)

Lets begin!

1) Unless you have access to a lift, pull the front of the car onto ramps or jack it up and place on jack stands. Always set the brake (even AT) and usewheel chocks for safety even on level ground. NEVER work under a car supported on ly by a jack.

2) After your engine and exhaust are cool, crawl under the the front of the car and remove the plastic under body splash guard under the engine. You’ll need a a 10mm socket for the 16 bolts around the edge and a flat head screwdriver to pry the 3 plastic trim clips holding it in place in the center.

3) After removal of the splash guard, the next step is to remove both nuts holding the ends of the front sway bar to the end links with a 17mm socket. I sprayed them with the PB Blaster and waited about 10 minutes while I enjoyed a beer. If you’re not He-Man or don’t have an impact wrench, use the breaker bar.

4) Next, remove the bushings that hold the bar from the frame but loosening the 14mm nuts with the socket. You may or may not need the breaker bar depending on how strong you are.

5) Generously lubricate the bushings for the new sway bar with the provided silicone grease. Use only SILICONE grease, as lithium or other types will eventually wash away eventually and you will have the most annoying noise you’ve ever heard (next to Fran Drescher’s voice) coming from under your car all the time. Place the bushings onto the bar in the proper location (outside the stops) and place the bracket in place over them in the same configuration as the OEM parts.

6) Position the bar in the same location as the OEM part you just removed and bolt the brackets back into place. Torque all 4 nuts to 37 ft./lbs.

7) Reconnect the end links through the hole and replace the nut holding it in. Torque to 62 ft./lbs. Put the splash guard back in place and bolt/clip it back. You’re done on the front! Have another beer. Now we need to hit it from the back. 

8) Lift the rear of the car in the safe method of your choice.

9) The installation directions at this point call for you to remove the splash guards in front of the rear sway bar. Not necessary. Just remove the one rearmost 10mm bolt and it will pull down enough for you to work. Sorry, forgot to snap a photo of this. 

10) Next the directions call for removal of the 4 bolts (14mm) holding the mid-pipe section from the muffler section, along with removing the mid pipe from the exhaust hangers so you can lower the mid pipe to access the rear sway bar. They also say to remove the center exhaust brace. Again, I didn’t photograph this because I don’t have OEM exhaust. What you actually have to remove will be dependent on your exhaust system and how it bolts up. I loosened the front bolts of my mid pipe and removed the rear bolts and let it hang down. I didn’t remove the center brace as I didn’t need to.

11) Now remove the end link nuts with a 14mm socket. Leave the end links through the ends of the bar to hold it in place when you remove the bushing brackets. Now remove the bushing brackets (also 14mm).

12) Once everything is loose, remove the OEM sway bar. Repeat the lubricate/position bushings and bracket routine from the front end. You remember don’t you?

13) Place the new Hotchkis rear sway bar into position like the OEM one you removed. Screw on the 4 14mm nuts to hold the brackets/bushings in place but don’t tighten them all the way yet.

14) You’ll notice that the new bar has 3 holes here the OEM one had only 1. This is to adjust the amount of stiffness in the rear. For the S model the hole nearest the end is 5% stiffer (don’t wast your time), the middle hole is 30% stiffer and the innermost hole is 60% stiffer (Non S is 120%, 175%, and 250% stiffer respectively). Choose your poison. It is very easy to come back and change the setting so experiment. It should go without saying, but put the end link through the same hole on each side.

15) If you use the stiffest (innermost) hole, slide the bushing and it’s bracket all the way to the REAR of the vehicle in order to help the hole in the bar align with the end link. When you’ve got it in position, tighten the bushing bracket nuts down to 25 ft./lbs. Tighten the end link nuts to 41 ft./lbs.

Finished! Go inside and have another beer and rejoice that a shop didn’t just charge you $200 to do something you can do yourself in less than 2 hours.

Energy Suspension 9.5159G Performance Polyurethane Black Greaseable Sway Bar Bushing Set List Price: $26.55 Sale Price: $16.40 See details»

Energy Suspension 15.5106G Black HyperFlex Polyurethane Front Sway Bar Frame Bushing Set List Price: Sale Price: $25.35 See details»

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Moog K7328 1 3/16" Front Sway Bar Frame Bushing List Price: Sale Price: $10.75 See details»

OES Genuine Suspension Sway Bar Link List Price: $15.22 Sale Price: $15.22 See details»

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